Under Sail from Sicily to the Riviera

Palermo is the guardian of the Sicilian soul. Many have been attracted to this city, the largest capital of the Italian islands. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans... Palermo is a rich culmination of so many cultural influences as seen in the Moorish designs on the cathedral, and the Byzantine mosaics of the Palatine chapel, which is itself housed within the precincts of the Norman palace. You will fall under the spell of the palaces, baroque splendours that grace the town with their obsolete beauty. It is thrilling to stumble upon one of those fabulous markets, high in colour, and headily picturesque.

Of the seven Aeolian islands, this is the largest and the most populated. Lying off the north coast of Sicily, in the Tyrrhenian sea, Lipari is one of UNESCO’s marvellous World Heritage sites. Its lava stone quarries and obsidian flow of Rocce Rosse are indications of its volcanic nature. The town, the largest urban area in the whole archipelago, proudly houses its citadel and its castle, both rooted in Antiquity. If you head further into the centre, you’ll be surprised to come across a Norman cathedral, complete with a magnificent baroque façade.

The little town of Campania gives its name to the region containing the magnificent, UNESCO World Heritage listed, Amalfi coast. And for good reason. Located at the foot of Mount Cerreto, against a rock face of a gorge that opens onto the sea, Amalfi’s absolutely splendid natural scenery alone is enough to feast your eyes on before making for the medieval streets to explore some of its history. The mix of cultural influences from the Mediterranean Rim is omnipresent here.

Off the coast of Naples, the island of Ponza has always lived outside of time… Also known as the island of Circe, where the famous magician who captivated Ulysses was born, this magnificent rock, the result of a volcanic eruption, rises from the Tyrrhenian Sea. Faced with the wild beauty of this site, you will understand why Ulysses was in no hurry to head off for Ithaca. Its rugged coastline of rocks and white or blue-grey cliffs, sculpted by the wind and the waves, is full of sea caves that the Romans used to use for bathing. The village of Ponza also offers a pretty sight, with its colourful cubic houses forming a semi-circle around the tiny port.

In the elbow of a creek on the northern coastline of Elba Island, a small corner of paradise awaits in the form of Portoferraio. As you approach its coastlines, you will make out the powerful and majestic contours of its Medici fortresses. Napoleon Bonaparte spent many of his 300 days in exile here. The Palazzina dei Mulini, his first imperial residence, whose gardens offer outstanding views of the sea, is a must-see. Historical treasures are followed by another kind of treasure, namely white sand beaches, and equally tempting local specialities including gurguglione and rice with cuttlefish ink.

Located on the magnificent chiselled coast of Liguria, to the north-west of the Italian peninsula, Portovenere is an unusual little fishing village. Clinging to the southernmost tip of the Cinque Terre National park, this charming town benefits from an exceptional location, at the mouth of the gulf of La Spezia. As soon as you set foot on land, you will be mesmerised by the pastel shades of the buildings. Via Capellini is its lively and welcoming main street, brimming with shops and restaurants. At the end of a long promenade, a steep road leads to Doria castle. Below, on its rocky spur, the Church of Saint Peter offers a splendid view of Palmaria island.

Close to the Cinque Terre, Portofino is the jewel of the Ligurian Riviera. This "small village that stretches like a half moon around a silent basin", described by Guy de Maupassant, is today a pretty, lively little port that has managed to preserve the authenticity of its maritime traditions, which have been recognised since Ancient times. Built in the hollow of a small natural cove sheltered by the pine forest, the village is at the heart of a protected maritime reserve. The shimmering colours of its house fronts and the exceptional location of this village have inspired many authors and artists. You will also see the Portofino lighthouse, immaculate in its green setting. Perched on the Punta del Capo, it watches over the peninsula and its postcard setting.

Capital of the Cote d’Azur, Nice is surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills and mountains that protects it from the wind. You will probably want to explore the Promenade des Anglais, where you can sit on one of the famous blue chairs laid out opposite the baie des Anges. The Château hill is also a very pleasent place to walk. This is the entrance to the old city, with its bustling markets and regional products along the main street, the Cours Saleya.